New York Fashion Week

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Li Edelkoort is definitely a high highlight of the Design Indaba ‘09. She is a proclaimed trend forecaster with amazing insight. I scribbled away like mad with her presentation but here is a sum-up of the things that stood out for me.

We live apart and want to be together. Li described it in two words “humbleness” and “togetherness”. An example is the rising number of farm/organic markets. We want to come together and meet. We want real relations. Isn’t this wonderful!?! I think so. We are reconnecting, wanting and needing to return to old values, traditions, craft, gardening – things that are wholesome and truthful (perhaps I am taking it a bit far now).

biscuit-millPhoto’s from the The Neighbourgoods market every Saturday in Salt River.

Li also spoke a lot about the financial crisis and how it is affecting things. Angie Hattingh from ifashion put it really well: “What Li notes as being different about this current crisis is the world’s reaction to it. In the past financial crises were marked by a return to basics ideology. Fashion was marked by minimalism – a sort of atonement for the sins of our excesses. This time the crisis is not of our making – blame falls squarely on the shoulders of the financial institutions. So we have nothing to atone for. But we have been presented, instead, with the opportunity to re-centre ourselves, to narrow our focus to our local environment and to project our dreams of our changed future.”

Story telling and animation in design was and is very important and follows from the trend pointed out above.  This also resonated with the notion of how we are finding ‘animated’ objects fun. At the Design Indaba Expo I found Vanilla Concrete’s ceramic creatures to be a perfect example of this. Plush toys have started popping up every where and although they are cute, you have to agree that they are rather unusual and some even weird – but still, we all want a plush friend. They invoke our imagination. But, how about making a ceramic plush? Suddenly all the soft and cuddlyness is taken out and it is in reverse: A ‘concrete’ something is made animate. I so badly wanted to take Milla home with me (far right).

vanilla-concreteLeft to right by Vanilla Concrete: Frumpie ceramic; Frumpie soft toy and to the right is Milla ceramic. To read about the frumpie personality and/or if you want to buy one click here.

Grey, grey, grey … how many times can you say grey…..? As Li puts it, we are in a time of indecision and we are “ready to embrace a time of hope and well being”. Black and white are neither and thus grey is the perfect positive balance. Li even showed a on-the-street video by Bill Cunningham (New York Times Photographer) about the presence of grey at the New York fashion week.

P.S. Yellow is apparently the new pink (a perfect complimentary colour for grey).

My two MOST exciting observations were:

1. Li did NOT speak about bling or glitz. I have never liked all the glam so on a personal level, I was excited to hear that it is not going to be a big feature in design.

2. The presence of grey as a trend is also a long term trend. In fact Li  seemed to feel that we (civilisation) are turning over a new leaf. This new way – where we go backwards to go forward and where we seek the ‘human element’ as technology features more in our world (as she put it “we want to be unplugged but wired at the same time”), is a trend that will be around for the next 40 years! I am SO EXCITED about this. Trying to keep abreast of change is exhausting and to hear that season trends are only going to blur more and become one is a relief. Long ago 100 years went by with one trend now we do not even have 100 days with a big trend. Isn’t this refreshing information.

:)

I am passionate about recycling, re-using, re-creating, organic fabrics and natural dyes. I love the magic that is either gained or restored to a product or design. Recently I have come across several young designers who have used the ‘old’ and created the ‘new’.

untitled-1.jpgNicole Rae Styer is a young fashion designer who has turned her passion into something truly amazing. She takes old clothes and fabrics and using vintage school craftsmanship creates a “custom vision for the present” in her colourful studio that was recently visited by blogger Flygirl. Her garments are one-of-a-kind, each with its own unique voice, a voice first spoken on the spinning wheels of the early seamstresses and loud enough to make themselves heard in today’s fashion assembly line. Her goal is to draw from the past and create something fashionable for the future. She certainly has done this and recently showed at New York Fashion week.

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The CPUT 3rd year Surface Design Students recently did a project where they had to take items of old clothing and created a new and desirable garment from. Their concept was quite in-depth but once unraveled into logical layers it can be understood.

The project deals with recycling old clothes and at the same time incorporates the theme of ‘Extreme Democracy’ developed by Steven Johnson which I would explain as the cohesiveness of organisms working together. This theory was applied to clothing: They asked if you are what you wear or if you wear what you are? An interesting question…and even more interesting is the different ways in which the students interpreted the brief and applied it.

Here are some examples of the students work:

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Weyers Marias’s (above) garment is absolutely amazing (and his concept board filled with morphing images of his clothing is beautiful too). What I like most about his garment is the adaptability of it. Hidden underneath are a web of ribbons that gather at the neck. These are colour-coded and for example, if you pull the red one the left part of the outfit rises and the shape of the garment undergoes a complete metamorphosis.

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Miriam Haynes (above) has created quite a stir with her garment that “superficially covers the female figure.” The garment highlights the issue of sexuality, sexual abuse and female liberation. She asks why can women not wear anything they want to? You might say that we can…but if you think about it, this garment would be a no-no because of how it exposes the body and could be said as asking to be to sexually assaulted. Very interesting.

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Hesere Gildenhuys and Monita Rademan (above) discovered, right at the end, that their garments compliment each other and work well together. Gildenhuys has reworked stocking to create a network of intertwining fabric that hints to a stifling lack of communication and Rademan’s piece tells the story of time. I love the layers in Rademan’s piece: The fabric underneath is so busy, the fabric on top so clean and calm but because it has been gathered, pulled and twisted….it creates a conflict – the same conflict of too many things to do but not enough time!

17.jpgInge van der Post (left) used her dad’s old dressing gown. Her theme was comfort, saftey and protection. “My clothes must be my armour, my courage, my energy, my talisman, my secret weapon against the forces of this world that will try (and fail) to conform me to their ideals and into the many mass-produced clone-drones.”

All these amazing creations have a future and I think that is the most exciting thing about recycling or recreating. I love what Chantal Clarys said in her report on the above project: “Mass production is a clustering system, it is great at conjuring up crowds, but lousy at coping. The producers of mass production can manipulate us/the crowds, but you realise there is something missing, something true”. I think she is right….we need heart, soul and meaning in our clothing…because I am a person with heart, soul and meaning.