The Shweshwe Story

This magical blue fabric has a fascinating history. The story begins in Europe where the fabric was imported from Asia, mainly India. The cloth was originally made using natural indigo dye but a synthetic substitute as well as two additional colours (a rich chocolate brown and a vibrant red) is now used.The original German Print, ‘Ujamani’ or ‘Shweshwe’ fabric was introduced to South Africa with the German settlers in 1858/9. Xhosa women took a particular liking to this stiff blue fabric and gradually replaced their animal skin garments for these newly available cotton ones. Over the years Shweshwe fabric has become an intricate part of traditional ceremonies in the rural areas.

Slowly the production of Shweshwe fabric has disappeared from Europe and today the only known producers of the Indigo Dyed Discharge Printed Fabric are in South Africa. This factory is 45% owned by the workers, creating a sustainable future for them in the Eastern Cape. Authentic Shweshwe fabrics can be identified by a trademark back-stamp on the fabric: the Three

Leopards, the South African version of the original and traditional Three Cats trademark or Toto 6. The stiff touch, smell and taste of the fabric are also unique ways to ensure the fabric is genuine. The reason for these characteristics lies in the fabric’s history:- During the long sea voyage from the UK to South Africa, starch was used to preserve the fabric from the elements and gave a characteristic stiffness and smell. Today the fabric is starched for traditional reasons. After washing, the stiffness and smell slowly disappear to leave behind a beautiful soft cotton fabric.

(Note: When washing Shweswhe for the first time the excess indigo comes out and therefore, it is advisable to wash items separately).